1、服装英语服装英语Measurements and Apparel&Accessories ClassificationsONTENTS目录目录C人体尺寸测量服装部位的名称立体裁剪放缝工业推板排料measurementsmeasurementsmeasurementsVertical measurementsAcross measurementsGirth measurementsChapter1 Apparel Equipment Girth Measurement:The measurement is taken around different position in the bodice
2、 Head Girth Neck Bust Waist Hips Thigh Knee Ankle Upper Arm Elbow WristUnit 1 Body Measurements Taking1.Across Measurement:The measurement is taken in the bodice horizontally and crossly Shoulder Width Cross Back/X-Back Cross Front Bust Point to Bust PointUnit 1 Body Measurements Taking2.Vertical Me
3、asurement:The measurement is taken in the bodice vertically Nape to Waist Shoulder to Waist Line Shoulder to Bust Point Full back Length Overarm Length Elbow Length Waist to Hips Crotch Depth Outside seam Inside seam Unit 1 Body Measurements Taking3.人体尺寸测量Unit 1 Body Measurements TakingThere might b
4、e several sections of a garment,and each section may be composed of one or more pieces of fabrics,which are sewn together to form a garment.Tops BottomsGarment SectionsUnit 2 Garment SectionsThe tops of garments will have body,collar,sleeves,depending on the style features,and each section has vario
5、us types.Tops Unit 2 Garment SectionsBodyThe body of a garment is usually composed of front and back joined by side seams and shoulder seams.Some styles have the open-ing at the CF(center front),then the body will include left front and right front.Meanwhile,there are lots of jackets or suits have s
6、eams at the CB(center back),then the back will be divided into two pieces.TopsDifferent styles with various bodiesSleeveLots of garments are assembled with two sleeves,like shirts or hoodies,and some of them are composed of one-piece sleeves,the others are with two-piece sleeves.The sleeves of fitte
7、d women jackets with higher crown,are separated to two parts,one is top sleeve and the other is under sleeve,so this kind of sleeves are called two-piece sleeves.Some sleeves are set-in sleeves,sewn into the garment armholes.There are also some raglan sleeves which are joined with body and collar.To
8、psCollarCollar types include flat collar,band collar,grown-on collar,collar with lapel,etc.The peter pan collar is a typical flat collar,and one of the typical band collars is the mandarin collar.Some collars are the combination of these two,such as a shirt collar,which has four parts:top collar,und
9、er collar,top collar stand and under collar stand.TopsCollarTopsBottomsUnit 2 Garment SectionsTrousersThe basic style of a pair of trousers has five parts:waist band left frontright front left backright backThe opening of the trousers will be closed by zippers or buttons,and if the opening is at the
10、 CF,it is called fly.There should be a top fly and an under fly.Some styles like jeans will have extra components like Yokes in both of left back and right back,and coins pockets or patch pockets.TrousersBottomsBottomsSkirtsThe simplest skirt only required one piece without a waistband.Different des
11、ign elements or details achieve various styles of skirts,such as pleats,ruffles,tucks,gores and godets.There might be also some darts or yokes,to generate different silhouettes of the skirts.Some of them look feminine,and some of them look girly.The changing of a skirt length could also reveal the t
12、rends in the fashion history.Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsAccording to styles,genders,ages,body c h a r a c t e r s a n d occasions,there are s e v e r a l w a y s t o classify clothing.For e x a m p l e s,a s w e mentioned in last chapter,there are tops and bottoms.Generally clothing could be clas
13、sified as womens wear,mens wear,childrens wear.Womens wear01Mens wear02Childrens wear03Womens wearThere are basic styles showing in most womens closets,like dress,skirt,pants,jackets,coats,blazers,cardigans and sweaters.These clothes might be sexy,sweet or neutral,depending on their characters.The m
14、ost popular outerwear for women is dress,no matter various silhouettes.It is commonly to find shirt dress,coat dress,princess dress or dress with empire lines in popular markets.A dress also could be mentioned as one-piece in fashion magazines.Womens wear Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsTOPSCOATSSKIRT
15、SSWIM WEARTROUSERSTROUSERSMens wearMen do not like shopping as women do,and their clothes styles are simpler than womens.A three-piece suit includes a jacket,a pair of trousers and a vest or a waistcoat.It is usually found in some invitation cards that lounge suit requested,meaning less formal suit
16、or office suit will be appropriate on this occasion.This kind of suit is worn with a long-sleeve shirt and a tie as a traditional western standard business wear.Mens wear Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsUnit 3 Apparel ClassificationsChildrens wearThe purpose of childrens wear is different from adults
17、wear,and designers will put the comfortability on the first place.Babys wear has more strict standards to control the quality of the clothes.Natural fibers are more popular and some parents are picky to choose clothes for their childes,especially mothers.Overalls,jumpers,jersey and T-shirts with cut
18、e printings are their favorite.Childrens wear Unit 3 Apparel ClassificationsKids wearBabys wearUnit 4 Accessory ClassificationsAccessories are very important for a chic womans daily look,and most of these luxury fashion brands developed fashion accessories with their signatures,such as handbags,sung
19、lasses,scarves,belts,shoes,jewelries,watches,etc.Head wear32Head wearFoot wearPurseAccessory Classifications服装英语服装英语Garment MaterialONTENTS目录目录C服用纤维的种类服装纱线服装织物服用辅料服装材料的管理39Fabric plays a very important part of apparel industry,and its characters impact the appearance of clothes,so the knowledge of g
20、arments materials will be necessary for professional peoples involved in apparel industry.Chapter 2 Garment MaterialChapter 2 Garment MaterialUNIT 5UNIT 6UNIT 7UNIT 8Textile Fibers and yarnsFabricTrimmingsGarment Material ManagementUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsFIBERSYARNSNatual FiberMan-made Fiber
21、Textile FiberCotton fiberLinen fiberSilkWoolUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsCotton,mercerizedCotton,not mercerizedUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsRamieFlaxHempUnit 5 Textile Fibers and yarnsThere are two ways to manufacture textile-like fabrics:one is weaving and the other is knitting,and the quality
22、of fabrics depends on how the yarns are woven or knitted and finished.Colors,textures,printings of the fabrics might be the key elements to attract customers.Unit 6 FabricThere are some common woven fabrics:calico,poplin,chintz,palace,serge,panama,denim,venetian,flannel,twill,gabardine and herringbo
23、ne,etc.the name is applied to any plain cotton.Poplin:a rib-weave fabric,usually made from viscose fibers.Calicoa cotton or cotton blend fabric with a pile of ribs in the warp.Corduroya woolen or worsted twill fabric with a soft handle and surface achieved by milling.FlannelChintza brightly printed
24、and glazed cotton fabric.Panamaa lightweight plain weave suiting fabric.Sergerobust twill weave fabric,usually made from wool and plain dyed.Tweedsturdy woolen cloth,originally woven in southern Scotland but now applied to wide range of fabrics.Twillfabrics woven in twill weave,and their surface can
25、 be recognized easily by the diagonal appearance.Unit 6 FabricUnit 6 FabricKnitted fabrics are more stretchable than woven fabrics,because they are made by intermeshing loops,and they are classified to two types:weft knitted fabric and warp knitted fabric.They usually include Plain/Jersey,Rib/Double
26、 jersey,Interlock,Terry knit as mentioned below:semi-circular needle loops shown in the back,and V-shaped loops shown in the front.Plain/Jerseythe structure reveals alternate wale of plain and reversed plain stitches.There are 1x1 rib and 2x2 rib,etc.They have good stretch ability so usually used fo
27、r cuffs,collars and waistbands.Interlock:looks like rib,can only be unraveled from the last end,without tendency to ladder and curl.RibTerry knita fabric as in Fig.2.2.3,more flexible than woven terry cloth.51Knitted FabricNon woven FabricUnit 6 FabricLeather and furUnit 6 FabricTrimmings means acce
28、ssories applied in garment,and sometimes they make the clothes look more expensive.Unit 7 TrimmingsLining sewn to the shell fabrics to cover the stitches or made for the wearer easily to pull though the shell sleeve,sometimes provide warmth and can be removable.Interlining it is usually used for col
29、lar,cuff or lapel,keeping their shapes.There are 3 types of them,fusible interlining,non-fusible interlining and sew-in interlining.Buttons buttons could be made of metal,wood,leather or plastic,and the size of a button is very important as information in the trimming sheet of suppliers.Zippers a zi
30、pper basically has two parts:a slider and teeth.There are metal zippers,nylon zippers and plastic zippers,and the first one is most expensive among them.ZippersButtonsUnit 8 Garment Material ManagementFabric pursing0102Fabric warehousing A new round to merchandise new products or collections will st
31、art with fabric swatches,trend information and last season market report.The fabric swatches might be sent by suppliers,or collected by design department,and they will be developed to clothes for the next season.The design apartment take responsibility for the develop samples,and designers would con
32、tact vendors and suppliers frequently for the fabric colors,sometimes they ask suppliers to make lab dips before purchasing department give orders to suppliers.01Date02Order number03A piece of fabric swatch/lab dip04Description on color,name,texture,quality and other details05Delivery date06How to d
33、eliver and packUnit 8 Garment Material ManagementClothes manufactures will check the fabrics after they receive them,and it is necessary to lay out the whole yards of the fabric on the long tables in a big room.The grain of woven fabrics might be first to be checked with,to avoid problems happened d
34、uring cutting and sewing.Plaid and stripes and checks require more fabrics because they need to be matched at the seams.There is a stock-keeping section to keep and manage the fabrics and trimmings.They check incoming and outgoing materials,and keep stock in appropriate ways.Meanwhile enough stock h
35、as to be provided preventing production from stopping.Garment Material Management服装英语服装英语Apparel Industry EquipmentONTENTS目录目录C01缝制前加工机械设备使用与维修缝制前加工机械设备使用与维修02通用缝纫机使用与维修：平缝机的使用与通用缝纫机使用与维修：平缝机的使用与维护维护03专用缝纫机械使用与维修：锁边机、锯齿专用缝纫机械使用与维修：锁边机、锯齿机，锁眼机，缲边机的使用与维护机，锁眼机，缲边机的使用与维护04装饰缝纫机械使用与维修装饰缝纫机械使用与维修05整理定型机械设
36、备使用与维修：熨烫设备整理定型机械设备使用与维修：熨烫设备的使用与维护的使用与维护06机缝线迹，服装绘图软件：各种不同线迹机缝线迹，服装绘图软件：各种不同线迹及车缝，服装辅助绘图软件及车缝，服装辅助绘图软件There are many types of sewing machines,according to their stitch types,applications and needles.The most important and common one is the lockstitch machines,and it is widely used in apparel factor
37、ies.Other sewing machines are used for the various purposes during the production process.For example,overlock machine is used to finish seams of woven fabric,and the felling machine could be used for hems with stitches on the surface of clothes.Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentSewing MachinesLockstitch mach
38、ine is widely used in the sewing section.It joins two panels together,and suitable for most of the fabrics except for those very elastic ones,while a machine with a loop formation would be more appropriate.There are two types of them,according to the number of needles they have,one is single-needle
39、lockstitch and the other is double-needle stitch.Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentBrother lockstitch sewing machineLockstitch MachineUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentSewing machine detailsThey all need electric power to start,so the needles of them could perform well at the very high speeds of 50008000 stitches per m
40、inute.To avoid the needle broken,we need to check the fabrics thickness,the tension of the thread,and the stitch length.For example,seams are usually stitched with 4-5 stitches per centimeters,easing and gathering could be done with 3-4 stitches.Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentOverlock stitch machine:This k
41、ind of machine is usually used for neatening the raw edges of fabrics.Their loop formation can totally enclose the raw edges,but the fabric edges would also be cut when they sew the panels together.An overlock machine has more threads involved.Three or four thread overlock machines are very common i
42、n the production line.Overlock stitch machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentOverlock Stitch MachineFelling machine is used for securing of hems with invisible stitches on the right side of the fabrics,so it is also called blind stitch hemming machine sometimes.This machine has curv
43、ed needles,and sewing chain stitches with only a fraction of the fabric caught.Felling machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentButtonhole machine is a must-have machine in almost every factory.The size of the buttonholes could be alternate according to the requirement of client.It is a chain stitch machine,
44、and there is a blade to cut the center of the buttonhole automatically.Buttonhole machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentZigzag Machine Unit 9 Apparel EquipmentUnit 9 Apparel Equipment家用电动缝纫机特种缝纫机（针织用）缝盘机Unit 1 Apparel Equipment电脑绣花机The steam iron should be necessary,and surely with an ironing board.The te
45、mperature,pressure and pressing time can be pre-set.The operator also require other assistant tools like sleeve board or seam roll,to press different parts of the clothes.It is very important to put the iron appropriately when the operator doesnt use it,and turn off the power.Unit 9 Apparel Equipmen
46、tPressing Machinefancy stitchVarious overlock stitchesStitch TypesSingle needle stitchdouble needle stitchStitch Types电脑绣花图案 Stitch TypesUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentStitch problemsPlain seam Seam TypesSlot Seam French seamUnit 9 Apparel EquipmentAuto CAD mainly used for drawing patterns in computers,and
47、 printing and cutting them out directly.It is much more convenient for technicians to draw draft and revise them in computer.The other effective advantage of Auto CAD is to grade in computer,just need to digitize around the pattern pieces of medium size and input the grading rules,and then the syste
48、m will automatically calculate all the key points and draw all size patterns.Auto CAD is also used for lay planning in computer,and that means arrange all the pattern pieces in a single layer of fabric.The system will calculate the percentage of the fabric consumption automatically,and the technicia
49、n can change the place of the pieces to get the biggest number of the consumption.Auto CAD and Other Software服装英语服装英语Garment DesignONTENTS目录目录C服用纤维的种类流行趋势服装表达面辅料设计服装设计原则Chapter 4 Garment DesignUNIT 10UNIT 11Design Principles and Fashion TrendsSketches and FabricationFashion design is kind of art pre
50、senting on the human body,meanwhile it is a part of commercial process.For the professional designers,customers are the final judge of the products they designed and developed.The market level,the price points,and consumers demand of non-verbal communications to social status,sex appeal,fitting and
