1、1Chapter 4The four primary base weft knitted structures24.1 Introduction 引言引言nFour primary structures Plain 纬平针纬平针 Rib 罗纹罗纹 Interlock 双罗纹双罗纹,棉毛棉毛 Purl 双反面双反面34.1 Introduction 引言引言nFour machines Single-jersey machines 单面机单面机 Rib machines 罗纹机罗纹机 Interlock machines 双罗纹机双罗纹机,棉毛机棉毛机 Purl machines 双反面机双反面
2、机44.2 Plain structure 纬平针组织纬平针组织nIntroduction Hosiery 长袜长袜 Fully fashioned knitwear 全成形针织品全成形针织品 Single-jersey fabrics 单面针织物单面针织物Used in the follow products5nIntroductionTechnical face Smooth Having the appearance of columns of Vs in wales.6nIntroductionTechnical backHaving the appearance of columns
3、 of interlocking semi-circles.7nIntroductionThe properties Unrove 横向脱散横向脱散 Laddering 纵向脱散纵向脱散8nIntroductionThe properties curl/卷边卷边 stretching/拉伸拉伸9nIntroductionThe properties 3-dimensional structure104.2.1 Production of single-jersey fabric/单面针织物单面针织物 on a circular latch needle machine/舌针圆机舌针圆机Cone
4、 纱筒纱筒Overhead bobbin stand 机顶纱架机顶纱架Free-standing creel 落地纱架落地纱架Winding-down mechanism 牵拉卷取机构牵拉卷取机构11Compared with the rib machine Simpler and more economical More feeders Higher running speeds Knitting a wider range of yarn counts124.2.1.1 The knitting head 编织机构编织机构1.Yarn feeder guide /导纱器导纱器2.Latch
5、 needle /舌针舌针3.Holding-down sinker /握持沉降片握持沉降片4.Needle cylinder /针筒针筒5.Cylinder driving wheel /针筒托盘针筒托盘6.Cylinder driving gear /针筒传动齿轮针筒传动齿轮7. Sinker-operating cams /沉降片三角沉降片三角8. Sinker cam-cap /沉降片三角座沉降片三角座139.Sinker trick ring /沉降片圆环沉降片圆环10.Needle-retaining spring /箍簧箍簧11.Needle-operating cams /织针
6、三角织针三角12.Cam-box /三角座三角座13.Cam-plate /三角底板三角底板14.Head plate /针筒底盘针筒底盘15.Cylinder driving pinion/小齿轮小齿轮 attached to the main drive shaft/主传动轴主传动轴144.2.1.2 The knitting action 成圈过程成圈过程Rest positionClearing Yarn feedingKnock-overHolding-down154.2.1.3 The cam system 三角系统三角系统1.Clearing cam /退圈三角退圈三角2.Sti
7、tch cam /弯纱三角弯纱三角,成圈三角成圈三角3.Upthrow cam /回针三角回针三角4.6.Guard cam /护针三角护针三角5.Return cam /回针三角回针三角The needle cam race 针三角轨道针三角轨道167.Race cam /平轨道三角平轨道三角8.Sinker-withdrawing cam /沉降片挺出三角沉降片挺出三角9.Sinker-return cam /沉降片回退三角沉降片回退三角The sinker cam race 沉降片三角轨道沉降片三角轨道174.2.1.4 Sinker timing 沉降片对位沉降片对位Push poin
8、t: The most forward position of the sinker during the knitting cycle. Sinker timing: The relationship between the push point and the needles. 184.3 Rib structure 罗纹组织罗纹组织The simplest rib fabric is 11 rib.19Characteristics of rib Has a vertical cord/凸条凸条 appearance More expensive to produce than plai
9、n Be elastic, form-fitting/适体适体, and retain warmth /保暖保暖better than plain Requires finer yarn than a similar gauge/机号机号 plain machine20Properties of 11 rib Has the appearance of the technical face of plain fabric on both sides without stretch Relaxes by approximately 30 per cent compared with its kn
10、itting width21Properties of 11 rib Lies flat without curl Can be unroved from the end knitted last Cannot be unroved from the end knitted first22Suitable for the extremities of articles: Tops of socks 袜口袜口 Cuffs of sleeves 袖口袖口 Borders of garments 下摆下摆 Stolling and strapping for cardigans/开衫毛衫开衫毛衫23
11、4.3.1 Rib set-outs 罗纹配置罗纹配置 Single or simple ribs 窄罗纹窄罗纹 Broad ribs 宽罗纹宽罗纹21, 31, etc63, 32, etc24 Swiss rib 瑞士罗纹瑞士罗纹 Skeleton 11 rib 2隔隔1抽针罗纹抽针罗纹25nEnglish rib 英式罗纹英式罗纹264.3.2 The knitting action of the circular rib machine/罗纹圆机成圈过程罗纹圆机成圈过程 Yarn feeding 垫纱垫纱Knocking-over 脱圈脱圈Clearing 退圈274.3.3 Need
12、le timing 针的对位针的对位It is the relationship between the loop-forming positions/成圈成圈位置位置 of the dial and cylinder needles.28nSynchronized timing 同步成圈同步成圈 Also know as point, jacquard and 22 timing High tension during loop formation29Delayed timing 滞后成圈滞后成圈 Also called rib or interlock timing Fabric is t
13、ighter and has better rigidity Rib jacquard or broad ribs cannot be produced in this way30Advanced timing 超前成圈超前成圈Be sometimes used in the production of figured ripple double-jersey fabrics/花式波纹花式波纹罗纹组织罗纹组织.314.4 Interlock structure 双罗纹双罗纹(棉毛棉毛)组织组织 It has the technical face of plain fabric on both
14、sides. The wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.32characteristics It lies flat without curl Relaxes by about 30-40 per cent or more, compared with its knitted width Not unrove from the end knitted first Thicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gau
15、ge Requires a finer, better, more expensive yarn334.4.1 Production of interlock fabric 双罗纹组织的编织双罗纹组织的编织nAn interlock machine must have the following: Interlock gating 双罗纹配置双罗纹配置 Two separate cam systems in each bed Needles set out alternately34nNeedles of interlock machine : Long needles 长针（低踵针）长针（低
16、踵针） Short needles 短针（高踵针）短针（高踵针）354.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 双罗纹三角系统举例双罗纹三角系统举例nThe cylinder cam system : A clearing cam 退圈三角退圈三角 B stitch cam 成圈三角成圈三角 C guard cam 护针三角护针三角 D upthrow cam 回针三角回针三角 E,F guard cam 护针三角护针三角 G,H guide cam 导针三角导针三角36The dial cam system : 1 raising cam 起针三角起针三
17、角 2,3 dial knock-over cam 针盘脱圈三角针盘脱圈三角 4 guard cam 护针三角护针三角 5 auxiliary knock-over cam 辅助脱圈三角辅助脱圈三角 6,7 guide cam 导针三角导针三角 8 swing type clearing cam 摆动退圈三角摆动退圈三角4.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 双罗纹三角系统举例双罗纹三角系统举例374.5 Purl structure 双反面组织双反面组织Purl structures can be achieved with double-ended
18、 latch needles/双头舌针双头舌针 or by rib loop transfer/罗纹移圈罗纹移圈 from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking/针床横移针床横移.38 The tricks/针槽针槽 are opposite to each other and in the same plane. So the single set of purl needles/双头舌针双头舌针 can be transferred across to knit outwards from either bed.39C
19、haracteristics of 11 purl Lateral stretch/横向拉伸横向拉伸 is equal to plain Length-wise elasticity/纵向弹性纵向弹性 is almost double Can be unroved from both ends When relaxed, it is twice as thick as plain40Another simple purl Moss stitch 桂花针桂花针 Basket purls 席纹组织席纹组织41Machines for purl structure Flat bed purls 双反
20、面横机双反面横机 -no longer built Circular purls (double cylinder machines) 双针筒圆机双针筒圆机 Electronically-controlled V-bed rib machines 电脑横机电脑横机42 Engagement/啮合啮合 of the head of the receiving slider/接针导针片接针导针片 with the needle hook/针钩针钩4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 双头舌针的转移运动双头舌针的转移运动43
21、 Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider/送针导针片送针导针片 to pivot outwards from the trick/针槽针槽 4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 双头舌针的转移运动双头舌针的转移运动44 Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks 45 A positive action which
22、maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle464.5.2 The use of dividing cams 分针三角的应用分针三角的应用The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the
23、 under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送针导针片送针导针片.47The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送针导针片送针导针
24、片.481.The delivering slider (D) advances with the needle. The outer hook of the needle contacts the hook underneath the head of the receiving slider (R).Purl needle transfer action:492.The head of the receiving slider (D) engages with the needle hook under the influence of a coil spring band (SB)/箍簧
25、箍簧.503.Slider D passes along the wall of the dividing cam (DC), then returns to its cylinder whilst slider R retires into its cylinder ready for the next knitting feed.514.5.3 The use of spring-loaded cams 弹簧支撑三角的应用弹簧支撑三角的应用This is used in one type of purl machine. At the moment of disengagement, the spring-loaded cam presses onto the tail of the delivering slider (D), causing its head to swing away from the cylinder and to disengage itself from the needle hook.
