1、 Chapter 2Pressure fieldtkxkhzhkHggzpcoscoshcosh2 Chapter 2 Wave energy Chapter 2Energy fluxEcnkhkhEczuptTPhdT2sinh2121dd100 Chapter 2Group velocity tckkcxkktckkcxkka22cos22cos22/36 Chapter 2kkcCgddcnckhkhCg2sinh21213/36 Chapter 24/36 Chapter 25/36 Chapter 2minmaxminmax12aaaaaaKr6/36 Chapter 27/36 C
2、hapter 28/36 Chapter 2Perturbation approach nn221 nn2219/36 Chapter 2Second-order solution)(2sin)(sinh)(2cosh)(83)sin()sinh()(cosh42tkxkhhzkLHkTHtkxkhhzkkTH10/36 Chapter 2Second-order solution)(2cos)(sinh2)2cosh()cosh()(8)cos(23tkxkhkhkhLHHtkxH11/36 Chapter 212/36 Chapter 2Second-order solutionkhgk
3、tanh213/36 Chapter 2Second-order solution)(2cos)(sinh)(2cosh)(43)cos()sinh()(cosh42tkxkhhzkLHTHtkxkhhzkTHu)(2sin)(sinh)(2sinh)(43)sin()sinh()(sinh42tkxkhhzkLHTHtkxkhhzkTHw14/36 Chapter 215/36 Chapter 2Comparison of bottom orbital velocity under Stokes wave with that of linear wave of the same height
4、 and length(H=4m,h=12m,T=12sec)16/36 Chapter 2Second-order solution17/36 Chapter 2TkhhzkLHH)(sinh)(2cosh)(420)(sinh)(2cosh)(21202khhzkcLHU18/36THdzUqh200004 Chapter 2Second-order solution)(sinh1625)(cosh68)(cosh521)(11662422khkhkhLHgHEk)(sinh)2cosh(2)(cosh)(16111662222khkhkhLHgHEp19/36 Chapter 2Seco
5、nd-order solution)()2sinh(1)(2cosh)(4)(2cos31)(sinh)(2cosh)2sinh(1)(43)cos()cosh()(cosh2132HOkhhzkLHgHtkxkhhzkkhLHgHtkxkhhzkgHgzpz20/36 Chapter 221/36 Chapter 2cos12H22/36 Chapter 223/36 Chapter 224/36 Chapter 2hzs),)(22TtLxxKHcnzzls)()()(31623EKKLHHhzt25/36 Chapter 226/36 Chapter 227/36 Chapter 2)(43sec32ctxhHhH28/36 Chapter 229/36 Chapter 230/36 Chapter 231/36 Chapter 2Ranges of applications of the several wave theories as function of the rations H/gT2 and h/gT2 32/36 Chapter 233/36 Chapter 234/36 Chapter 235/36
